Skip to main content

Easy Project: New Sunglasses case in soft automotive leather.

The tools for the job, just add my Singer 99 sewing machine 

Diane broke her sunglasses a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday she bought a new pair (in the hope of a summer some time this year.)
Her new glasses have no case, so she asked me to make one for her from my pile leather scraps. I have a fair bit of automotive upholstery leather bits and pieces that I picked up at The Gloucester Resource Center's Scrapstore a few weeks back.
Leather needles and a Teflon foot that I ordered for my machine arrived earlier in the week. (I used the standard Singer straight stitch foot for this project). I don't have much of an excuse not to make a case for Diane's sunglasses and put my old Singer 99 machine (and me) to a new test. I was not going to try anything fancy for this project, just a plain slipcase with a flap, simply sewn together. No gluing involved.
First I had to carefully iron out a few kinks and creases in the leather using a medium/hot dry iron and brown paper to avoid scorching. I used a deep shade of burgundy, soft automotive leather for the construction.
I cut out a rough shape for the cover, and flap retainer. I guessed it would be a little too large, and it was. so I adjusted the size with the front clipped to the back with my cheap as chips Chinese "wonder clips" after the first side seam and one end of the flap retainer was in place. I did not use pins as they would leave holes that would always be there.
The second edge was seamed together which also secured the retaining strap in place.
An additional layer of leather was placed on the flap, wrong sides together and stitched across the top of the pouch ensuring that no stitches caught the rim of the pouch. The two layers of the flap were then shaped using my curve ruler, cut with a rotary cutter and self-healing cutter mat before edge stitching in place with a 1/8" seam allowance.
Job done!
I took no time at all to design something simple, cut it out and stitch it together. With a few simple modifications to the overall width and adding an extra layer of leather to the redesigned flap, the design and construction processor took about an hour and a half. (Sewing leather is new to me).



Very Marj Proops


Finished


Finished case, sunglasses on the extension table of my Singer 99. Pot of cheap Chinese Clips used instead of pins 

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

My primary machine: Toyota's Super Jeans 34 after 10 months use.

This is my Super Jeans 34. The big daddy of Toyota's Super Jeans machines with 34 stitch options. It's black, well actually it's more like a dark brown to my eyes. Like almost every domestic sewing machines today, it has a plastic exterior with a rigid metal frame inside. This makes for a lightweight machine, but one which can still punch its way through multiple layers of denim fabric with ease. So what drew me to this machine and what is it like to use? Well, first let me say that my partner has been using a Toyota Quiltmaster 226 for close to 5 years and swears by it as a real, un-fussy workhorse. She is a quilter and has made a multitude of quilts on her machine since we bought it, and it has been totally reliable. I have a Toyota 3304 over locker that I use for garment construction too. It took me a weekend to get to grips with a machine that uses 4 threads instead of two, but since then I loved using the 3304, it's a great over locker, quiet, easy to use, ...

Singer 99: Edge stitching attachment.

Looking like a weird set of ladders the Singer edge stitch attachment is one of the most versatile attachments I have, so I thought that I would share some of the ways it can be used. First, it is a very effective and almost faultless way to stitch at the edge of material. Remove the normal presser foot and attach the edge stitcher and you are good to go. I like to turn under 1/8-1/4" of fabric first, and either press or finger press a sharp edge in place. The video below details the full edge stitching process using the attachment. Singer edge stitching foot   More edge stitcher techniques: Singer 99: Adding lace, ribbon etc to a garment edge with the edge stitching attachment

Issues with using a thread stand on my Singer 201K and 99K solved.

I had a small frustration with my vintage sewing machines which I have now cured. When I sew using cross-wound thread, which is most of the time, I do not use the machines spool holder. It is designed to work with spools of stacked thread, like the old Sylko reels. I run my thread from a thread stand, which works in reducing any additional twist to the thread by pulling the thread off the spool from end, not the side. In theory, it works great but in practice, I hit a snag. The spool stand is tall, with the thread stand guide arm being 3-4 inches higher than the spool pin on the machine. Most of the time there is no issue with this, especially if I am sewing at slow to medium pace, but if I pick up speed the thread has a tendency to jump out of the first thread guide on the machine. I find this happens on both my 201K and 99K machines. What causes the problem is that the thread goes slack if I take my foot off the gas. There is nothing to stop the thread flap...